However, I remain convinced that productions linked to cultural identities happening where these identities are developed, benefit local society with work and income.” As noted by Simone Cipriani of the Ethical Fashion Initiative, “Mass production always presents a risk of identity loss. But there is indeed market potential for culturally-inspired pieces. And worse, where this homogeny came at the cost of cultural heritage and the development of local economies. The possibility of a bland fashion future starts to come to mind, where we are all dressed the same, losing our cultural expression. In 2020 the Government of Timor-Leste submitted a proposal to inscribe tais on the UNESCO list of Intangible Heritage in Need of Urgent Safeguarding, and nascent government programmes have begun to reinvigorate traditional weaving. And as fewer people continue this craft, an important part of Timorese heritage begins to fade. With a limited market, however, business opportunities are uncertain. Designs vary by region, through traditional patterns handed down from generation to generation, and use of natural dyes available in the area. For centuries, tais have been used for ceremonial adornment, decoration, and clothing. After years of war, it regained its independence in 1999, and with it the challenge of reinvigorating its economy and cultural identity. Timor-Leste is one of the youngest countries in the world. This is the case in Timor-Leste, where imported fabrics are easily available and at lower prices, putting pressure on the local production of handwoven tais. With an abundance of imported materials and clothing, local designers are left with limited space in the market. Global industrialization and price competition in local markets have been cited as challenges to maintaining textile traditions, and importantly, related livelihoods. How does production on such a scale affect cultural identity and heritage? For World Day for Cultural Diversity for Dialogue and Development, we looked at the impact of mass production on heritage and traditional crafts, particularly textiles. We are producing significantly more garments annually than just a few decades ago – prior to COVID-19 it was estimated at 80-100 billion pieces per year.
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